Mocali Brunello di Montalcino 2017

The Mocali 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is a little harder to read compared to many of the wines in this report. It shows a savory quality with worn leather and cured meat that could well be a product of the very hot and dry growing season. The wine is lean on the palate, with more primary fruit flavors and fresh acidity to make for a neat and snappy close. Production is an ample 50,000 bottles.

A mix of plum, fruit cake, earth, leather and tobacco mark this savory, firmly-structured red, which tips toward the dense tannins in the end, yet remains focused and long. Best from 2024 through 2038. 4,150 cases made, 2,500 cases imported.

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is animalistic and balsamic in character, featuring wild berries and exotic spices offset by a hint of blood orange. This is deeply textural in feel, with juicy acids enlivening the tart red and black fruits within. It leaves the palate aching with gruff tannins that penetrate deeply, along with the slightest tinge of heat, under an air of violet florals.