Lexington Wine Co. Gist Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

This wine, made by the Thomas Fogarty team, presents a complex nose, with aromas of roasting oregano, marjoram, dill and thyme, smoked meat, blueberry and crushed lava rock. Those herbal touches swirl together on the palate amid hearty tannins, rounded blackberry fruits and soy flavors. Drink 2018-2033.

Checking in as a blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc and the rest Merlot, aged 22 months in 40% new French oak, the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Gist Ranch Vineyard is flat out beautiful. Cassis, lead pencil, underbrush and ground herbs flow to a medium to full-bodied, ripe and concentrated, yet elegant wine that has solid mid-palate density and sweet tannin. Like all of the wines here, it's not a blockbuster, but has real class and should evolve gracefully.

A big, rich wine, Lexington's 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Gist Ranch Estate packs a serious punch. Imposing mountain tannins gradually melt away to reveal a core of super-expressive dark cherry jam, grilled herbs, tobacco, leather and menthol. This is an especially big, ample style with plenty of structure from its location at about 2,000 feet above sea level. Readers should be prepared to cellar the 2013 for at least a few years.