Cloudy Bay Te Koko 2021

Te Koko is arguably the wine that launched the concept of premium Sauvignon Blanc in New Zealand in the 1980s—no mean feat. On the nose, this 2021 Te Koko Sauvignon Blanc leads with pink grapefruit, nashi pear, white pepper, layers of crushed shells and brine, with hints of vanilla pod and star anise. In the mouth, all of the above with additional cut fennel, suggestions of marzipan, graphite and white pepper. There is a gentle lees texture and brilliant length of flavor. Excellent wine. The only reason you could possibly not like this wine is if you don't like Sauvignon Blanc, and even then, I'd insist that you try it.

Te Koko is arguably the wine that launched the concept of premium Sauvignon Blanc in New Zealand in the 1980s-no mean feat. On the nose, this 2021 Te Koko Sauvignon Blanc leads with pink grapefruit, nashi pear, white pepper, layers of crushed shells and brine, with hints of vanilla pod and star anise. In the mouth, all of the above with additional cut fennel, suggestions of marzipan, graphite and white pepper. There is a gentle lees texture and brilliant length of flavor. Excellent wine. The only reason you could possibly not like this wine is if you don't like Sauvignon Blanc, and even then, I'd insist that you try it. 13.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

A crisp and pristine style, not without minerality. Lemon pith on the nose with a touch of asparagus as well as cedar, oranges, Mirabelle plums and a core of passion fruit. Dried-pineapple depth. Medium-bodied and bone-dry on the palate, this has zesty integrated acidity, weight and length with a chalky, citrusy, superfresh finish.

Aromatic and expressive, offering notes of jasmine, lime blossoms, green apple and passion fruit, with mouthwatering acidity and touches of Himalayan sea salt, preserved lemon and freshly grated ginger on the sleek finish. Drink now. 9,000 cases made, 600 cases imported.

This oak-aged Sauvignon leans into the lactic, toasty elements derived from winemaking techniques. Ripe fruit notes of honeyed pineapple and Key lime pie-with a mushroom nuance-are tucked beneath. The palate is as rich as the nose implies, with a tang of green acidity. Again, winemaking trumps terroirs and variety here, and while it's clearly from an experienced hand, it's a touch overworked.