Sigalas Santorini Assyrtiko 2023

The 2022 Santorini Assyrtiko, the flagship 100% Assyrtiko (usually producing around 100,000 bottles), is unoaked and comes in at 14.5% alcohol. Ripe and dense, this is a big wine on the palate, yet it is never overripe and it is sometimes stonewashed in demeanor. It shows good balance while it coats the palate, and it finishes with great fruit supported by impressive structure. The main flaw here is that this is underdeveloped and not yet fully expressive. That, of course, is something that will only be fixed by a couple of years in the bottle. It should hold well after that.

A fresh, finely meshed white with a sense of poise, this integrates delicate notes of yellow apple, pear, thyme, verbena, Marcona almond and spun honey with a lithe spine of acidity. A minerally underpinning of saline and stone emerges to linger on the finish. Drink now through 2028. 3,000 cases made, 1,800 cases imported.