Penfolds Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz 2020

Ripe and generous, but the aromatics take this to the next level, with notes of cardamom, paprika and dried rose petal, plus touches of candied violet and cocoa powder, to complement the core of fleshy blackberry, black cherry and cassis. The tannins are dense but velvety, and this finishes with warm chocolaty notes. Drink now through 2035.

The Barossa has the ability to convey a sense of place, dirt and air in the glass. The trick is to not get in the way-a cooper does not terroir make. Despite not being the dominant region in this blend (for specificity: McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Padthaway and Clare Valley), the Barossa makes a potent contribution. Here, in the 2020 Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz, the concentrated, dry and warm vintage is on show and provides a splay of earthy, dense fruit, stretched over a framework of savory tannin. Despite Penfolds's reputation for big tannins/big oak, the fruit here overpowers both and streams out over the long finish. The heart of Barossa is here. Very good. Will get better.

Opaque ruby. Oak-spiced cherry, blackberry and mocha aromas, along with coconut, licorice and cracked pepper accents. Deep and weighty on the palate, offering intense black and blue fruit, mocha and oak spice flavors that show an appealing sweetness but are slow to open. In a distinctly powerful style, delivering youthfully chewy tannins and a long, chewy finish that echoes the licorice and dark berry notes.